Bailure or Failure?

Check out the Spring/Summer 2011 Alpinist Magazine (Issue 35) for an article I wrote and some pictures I took related to the psychology of "success" or retreat, and embracing unknown in the mountains. The piece was prompted by a trip last year with my friend Nate Farr to NW British Columbia.

Thanks to Nate for being a great partner when decisions got tough and for Katie Ives at Alpinist for the help in editing!


4 Peaks - 23 hours - Quadruple Lindy

On Friday the 22nd, my friend Scott Bennett and I climbed the 3 biggest faces in Rocky Mountain National Park, plus 'The Barb' (III 5.10, 900') on the NE Face of Spearhead peak, in 23:45 car-2-car. 

Leaving the car at 3AM, I already hadn't slept in 20 hours...


F.A.* on the Spearhead, and shooting with Jordan.

Graham and Lauryn on The Barb
I just got back from a week up in one of Colorado's choicest locales, Glacier Gorge. I was fortunate enough to be joined by a passel of good friends,  and we enjoyed local beer, steak, scrambled eggs, pancakes with maple syrup, grilled sausage, alpine scrabble games, great music, and even managed to climb a bit:


Pining for the 'Pine


Fearing loud noises and confused by flashing lights, I fled the crowded melee of Front Range fireworks, and headed up into Rocky Mountain National Park on the 4th of July with my wife Allison to climb Spearhead Peak.


Park Season!

Edited Conditions:
As of 4th of July I've been up the Loch Vale valley twice and into Glacier Gorge once.  No snowshoes, crampons, axes, or boots are required for any of the rock routes, and the approaches are melting out fast. All bridges (including to Mills Lake) are fine.

 Even though the snowpack is roughly a month-behind its typical melt-out schedule here in the Colorado hills, I made two trips up into Rocky Mountain National Park last week. for some rock climbing.