Bugaboos Pictures

In July I made my first trip to BC's Bugaboo Provincial Park with old friend Nate Farr. We didn't venture onto the Howser Towers or the more remote East Creek Basin, as nearly every day's weather called for some amount of precip. I was impressed with how well-organized and managed the scene at Applebee Campground has become, thanks mostly to BC parks' upkeep and climbers' good wilderness practices. The camping had spots to hang food, metal lockers, posted weather forecasts, well-kept outhouses, and easy access to the big East Face of Snowpatch Spire and the South Face of Bugaboo Spire. For climbs on these features, you only need tennis shoes and a light axe or trekking poles. I never put on my crampons. If you are only doing routes that you'll rappel, bringing big clunky boots will keep your feet dry, but will obviously be a pain-in-the-arch for the steep 3hr hike in.

Divine Intervention, Snowpatch Spire

We did the first 5 pitches of Divine Intervention, which was excellent. For a a "real" day, do the whole route after it meets up with the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, and then carry over and come down the Kain Route.

Divine Intervention Topo


We climbed the Sunshine Route on Snowpatch Spire which had lots of fun meat-and-potatoes crack climbing. I was glad Nate talked me into bringing along two #4 camalots and a #5, and I was glad he did for the last pitch.


After a couple mis-starts, we did some lost-on-Snowpatch route, to the left of North Tower Direct and right of Flamingo Fling. Several pieces of antique booty guarantee that the line was not new, but still really good.

P2 Sendero

P3 Sendero

Our final climb was the neo-classic Sendero Norte. Sendero is one of the best routes I have ever tried. It goes at .12d, has bolted anchors the whole way, and I am already eager for a return trip to try and free it and complete it. This is definitely going to be my Bugagoo climb of choice for my ongoing personal "7Cs Project". You can rap the whole thing with 2 60m ropes.

Sendero Topo

Sendero written description

Include a double set from blue alien to #2, with a single #3 and #4. No RPs. Numerous red C3 cams if you have them (or at least triples in the red and yellow C3 sizes, the crux thin crack is very shallow in spots.)